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tisdag 24 mars 2015

Alp visit


At this time of writing I am in Stockholm working. About 3 months ago I left Stockholm and drove south to the Alps for some skiing, climbing and the first course for the mountain guide course. Unfortunately this winter hasn´t reached any records yet when it comes to snowfall. Green Christmas celebrations had been reported from all over the Alps. With a quick stop in Chamonix to collect some gear I went to pick up Gustav Mellgren at the airport in Geneva. We had both done some research on for that moment the best ski locations. Andermatt was high up on the list, when Gustav on top of that by coincidence met his friend Klas Englund at the airport with the same destination in mind, the choice was made.  

Being the days just before new year´s finding accommodation was not the easiest, luckily at the famous ´´Swedish house´´ a.k.a. ´´Villa villakulla´´ (a group of seasoneers that rent a house and nowadays work and live fulltime in Andermatt) they were kind enough to let us stay for some nights, even though it already was very busy.
In Andermatt we actually found fairly good conditions. We varied lift skiing with some easier touring. Al the time we had to be quite cautious because of the tricky avalanche situation that is the main theme in the Alps this season…
The main discovery of this trip was the Gotthard tunnel to the Swiss kanton Tiscino. On the bad weather days this was the quick escape. With a ride of just under one hour from Andermatt you enter a complete different world; sunshine, warm temperatures, palm trees and one of the best bouldering i´ve ever done.
Klas Englund cruising in Andermatt


picking lines in Andermatt

Cogne with warm temps


















After the trip to Andermatt I went to Cham for a couple of weeks trying to make something of the conditions. I filled the days with some skiing, working out, drytooling and some easier alpine climbing. Something that´s almost a must do is to start a ski or climb from the aiguille du midi-lift but for the first time on I don´t know how many trips to Cham I never made my way up there…strange idea.

Short visit to Verbier

Gustav Mellgren climbing rock instead of ice...

Sunshine skiing with my dad :)

Before it was time to go back Sweden, I went to Davos. Even I you would think that, I didn´t go there for the WEF. In Davos the ´´Schnee und lawinenforschung´´SLF is based. This is one of the world leading institutes on avalanche science (www.slf.ch). The Swedish mountain guide organization (SBO) had planned a week long avalanche course for us as part of the guide training.
The course started with a refresher of our skills and a visit to the ski patrol. Two full days where spent with Manuel Genswein, a real guru, and probably the mind behind your transceiver. By his lead we trained a lot on transceiver search methods and how to solve tricky multiple burials. If we got cold that was easily solved by practicing digging, jup even that you can optimize by digging in a V-shape or so called conveyor belt.
The other days we had some shorter lectures about snow physics and national avalanche forecasting but mainly we were out in the field together with Stephan Harvey, a mountain guide working for the SLF. We dug snow pits to examine the snowpack, trained on route finding in avalanche terrain and much more. It was very interesting given that there was a lot of avalanche activity. We even managed to trigger some small avalanches from a distance, a clear sign of instability.
Conveyor belt or V-shape digging


Stephan Harvey measuring density

Mikael Almlert checking out the avalanche we triggerd remotly 

Can you see the weak layer?







måndag 24 november 2014

AIA Abisko ice Adventure

After months of work with nine to five routines a hot summer and weekly climbing at the local crags of Stockholm it was time to cool down in the north of Sweden, Abisko to be exact. My friend Anders Nyström had invited me to kick of the ice climbing season in this small town in the far north of Sweden. Anders was going there with some Luleå friends and they were happy to share and invited along everyone who was keen. We ended up with 22 people staying at Abisko Mountain lodge, more or less an ice festival.




Great view and weather



In Abisko me and Anders teamed up for the three days of climbing we had also Patrik Lindgren joining in on the first day. I have been climbing in Abisko before during the time I worked at the Abisko turiststation so I now the area. The first day we wanted something to warm up on, something easy to get familiar again. So of we went to Gömda Dalen(Hidden valley), Kaisepakte. One hours approach gave a 60 meter high and 100 meter or so wide wall covered in ice of fairly easy climbing. We picked the 4 most obvious lines. It all felt a bit shaky but very familiar. ´´Ice climbing is like riding a bike´´, as my friend Christian Edelstam opted a couple of years ago while making his way up a thin ice. I can only agree.
the walk in to gömda dalen

Patrik on the lead



















The second day we decided to give the classic and in my opinion Abisko valleys best ice a go; det stora blå (the big blue). Anders took the first pitch and had to clean loads of double ice on the less steep parts, so now it is in shape for the season! I took the second pitch. It´s great climbing on this blue like ice. Just before topping out we made a abalakov for the descent. This makes that you just have to do one 60 abseil and you skip the top out on to grass an moss and basically nothing to abseil of from (i´ve heard rumors of and bolted anchor thou). Back at the car we had plenty of time left so we did some more climbing in the Abisko canyon and Kurvan. At the end of the day some good food was waiting at the tourist station and after that a sauna just at the lake of Torneträsk.
Stora blå!

The last day Lillpakte was on the menu. This is a miniature version of Kaisepakte (thereof the name). We climbed 3 obvious lines of great ice. With the arms reasonably tired the last stop was made at the ´´Artic Thai kitchen`` in Kiruna before boarding the flight back to rainy Stockholm.
Kaisepakte from Lillpakte

Not only ice, also great mixed climbing potential




Anders on the lead at lillpakte



Hopefully  next year there will be a AIA (Abisko Ice Adventure) again, join in!


Check out  http://kiwiclimber.se/iceclimbing/index.html a website by Rick McGregor for detailed description of the ice climbing in the valley.